DarkSakul

No issues yet, but if anyone has the time to read though and feel like proof reading or adding to the knowledge base please feel free.

Shots fired? Never mind, it was a shit video that showed nothing. Next time I should watch the video first, LOL.

That is when you swipe left

Moved over the What stick to buy guide and the some of the highlights of rtdzign RJ45 Guide. I decided to rewrite the Dual Modding guide as Nerrage's post on SRK TT is hard to read, especially when he gets into the theory of operation. I am going to assume people know basic electrical wiring.

The following thread is a work in progress. Disclaimer Please remember that It is the end user’s responsibility to see to and to carry out proper implementation their own repairs and modifications. Ultimately the end users hold responsibility for how they implement their own repairs. So you want to mod your stick so it works with more than 1 console/ system and that means ether replacing the PCB (printed circuit board) or adding an additional PCB. Were going to focus on the 2nd, adding a second PCB to the first of your stick or controller. I am going to make a few assumptions before I continue, I am assuming the reader knows the following Basic electrical wiring Basic electrical theory That you know how to solder That you know how to wire up your stick without dual modding I also recommend reading up on http://slagcoin.com/ The site is kind of dated now, but all the basics and fundamentals still holds true. It covers basic arcade stick wiring and prepping various controller PCBs for arcade stick use, as well as building arcade sticks. Before we begin a quick quote from the Cthulhu PCB creator Toodles *The power going to the PCBs should only be coming from one console. What we mean by common ground in this context? All your buttons, joystick directions, and inputs share the same ground path, or all their grounds are tied together. That if I get out a multimeter or continuity tester I can trace all the return voltages of each switch and input to a single ground trace/ground plane. What is a ground plane, a it's just a really thick area of copper on the board attached to ground or GND. How do I know my PCB is common ground or not? We take the PCB out and test it with a Multimeter on continuity test mode, Diode test mode (and listen for the beeps) or if your multimeter is cheap or really old resistance mode (and you bee looking for zero ohms resistance but you can see the power going though). In a pinch of you lack a multimeter you can wire up a single circuit with a LED, a battery and some length of wire (google DIY continuity tester) . You should get all your return or Gnd for each button contact and com/gnd on each switch going back to the same gnd. Here is an example of a Common ground PCB, with the ground points and inputs labeled Why all PCBs needed to be powered? Good question. With all PCBs powered, you do not have stray signals going from one PCB to another creating erroneous or false inputs, nor are you getting any inputs lost or interfered with. Keeping power on all boards keep the board's encoder on Idle, and they don't send out false inputs. But wouldn't that happen as the PCBs are plugged into the system? No, as you do not want both PCBs plugged into their respective systems at the same time. If you are using an single RJ45 connector 9or another style connector) for system cables, you can only plug into one console at a time. It is not advisable to plug your stick into multiple consoles/systems. What you are trying to create with a dual mod would perhaps resemble this Here are two PCBs with both of their Inputs wired together in a terminal strip going to the buttons and joystick. You don't have to follow this diagram to the letter, just illustrating how such a mod can be done. Two PCBs Dual Modded with Both using USB Items you need 1 common ground Controller PCB ( I would imagine this is already in your stick) 1 different common ground Controller PCB (as it make no sense to use 2 of the same PCB) Wire DPDT switch (double-pole, double-throw) or a device that can take the function of a DPDT switch Your arcade controller/ Stick Your electrical tools, soldering iron, pliers, wire strippers ect. You are going to cut the data lines on the USB cable (the green and white wires) and connect them to the output on the DPDT. Then find and connects the dates line from both boards to the inputs. Just make sure you keep green and white in order, especially if you use 1 color of wire. For our example We are going to have a PS3 PCB and a Xbox 360 PCB, but any USB based PCB would work (including multiboards like the MC Cthulhu). You want to wire your DPDT switch like this

System Cables USB/OG Xbox Cable USB cables [typically] follow a standard for wire coloring. The ground is always Black, D- is White, D+ is Green and Voltage is Red, For USB you should insert the wire into the Ethernet plug like so. According to this pinout diagram. Original Xbox is done the same way it is a USB with a funny end. On Xbox there is a Yellow cable that is not needed and can be clipped. Color Purpose RJ45 Pin Black Ground 1 White Data - 5 Green Data + 6 Red VCC 8 (OP) for the rest of the guide I am leaving out any wire colors, spoiled text will get into detail why rtdzign did this. I will go into detail about how to figure out the pins on a PS2 cable and using this methodology you can apply this to any system cable. For the PS2 cord we will need to take an extension cord and cut off the female end and strip about half an inch of the large insulation and expose maybe 2 mm of the small wires. Looking at the inside of the controller connector we have the following pins. From this point on I am leaving out the Photobucket links, use https://pinouts.ru/ if you need to refence the Plugs pinout. PS1/PS2 Cable PSX Pin Purpose RJ45 Pin Cthulhu Column 4 Ground 1 G 7 CLK 2 A 2 CMD 3 B 1 DATA 4 C 6 ATT 5 D 6 E 9 ACK 7 F 5 VCC 8 V Gamecube Gamecube pin Purpose RJ45 Pin 3 Ground 1 2 Data 7 1 VCC 8 NES Purpose -Pin # - Cthulhu Column GND 1 G CLK 2 A LATCH 3 F DATA 4 C VCC 7 V SNES SNES Pin - MC Cthulhu Column 1 G 4 C 5 F 6 A 7 V TurboGrafx-16/PC-Engine The American TurboGrafx-16 uses has a female Din 8 port on the system while the Turbo Duo and all the Japanese systems use a Mini Din 8. I recommend that you buy a number of 6 ft monoprice Mini Din 8 cables. For an TG-16 you can buy a male Din 8 connector and solder that to an ethernet cable. DIN Pin # - Cthulhu Column 1 V 2 A 3 B 4 C 5 F 6 E 7 D 8 G Saturn Pin - Cthulhu Column 1 V 2 B 3 A 4 D 5 E 7 F 8 C 9 G 3DO 3do will currently only work as the only controller, plugged directly into the system; trying to daisy chain off of it or use it through a daisy chain isn’t going to work. Dsub Pin - Cthulhu column 1 G 2 V 6 F 7 A 9 C Dreamcast: (no VMU support) MC Cthulhu only works with Arcade stick compatible games (just like the Agetec) Pinout: DC Pin - Cthulhu column 1 - F 2 - V 3 - G 4 - B 5 - C

Forward: So yes I straight up stole a guide that I didn't write. I will leave a link here to the original thread https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/rj-45-multi-console-cthulhu-arcade-stick-tutorial-ver-2/97185 This guide also applies to the PS360 Plus, the Brooks Retro Board and various other boards that use RJ45 system cables. Hopefully if SRK ever goes down again we have an archive of this valuable guide Quote from rtdzign (Note from OP), This first post is all about installing RJ45 cables to the MC Cthulhu and installing a RJ45 jack to your stick. Skip to the second post to see the cable pinouts Intro This post is a rewrite of Acceptable Risk?s RJ-45 Tutorial. This was posted to include new info such as recent console support added because the pinouts are spread out in the Cthulhu thread. Also I instead uses a Pass through over a keystone punch down type jack. The MC Cthulhu is a purpose built PCB for hooking up with arcade joystick components. To work with different consoles, you only need to solder wires from a controller extension cable to the appropriate spots. If you look at the top op the pcb there are 3 rows of solder points with columns labled “GABCDEFV”. Each extension cable wire must be soldered on to the appropriate column. When plugged in, the MC Cthulhu PCB can autodectect what system it is plugged into and then make your joystick work for that supported system. Be sure to download the latest firmware to ensure that all of the console cables you make will be compatible. Originally the MC Cthulhu was able to support 5 consoles using 3 cables, therefore only 3 rows, but now it has grown to include many systems. Because there are 8 columns for system cables a Ethernet jack was a natural fit. The connecter used is typically an RJ-45. If you want to do a dual mod with Xbox 360 pad then you should check out this tutorial. https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/rj-45-mc-cthulhu-imp-xbox-360-dual-mod-tutorial-diagram/92427 Kitty info Update: If you dual modded your stick with a Kitty board, they come preinstalled with a RJ-45 jack. If you connect that to a RJ-45 pass through, then you can use the same cable pinouts for making your own custom cable. Supplies List: (OP) Original Tutorial Parts 1 and 2, relevant for the MC Cthulhu, but not for system cable making.

SEGA Virtua Stick HSS-0130 (Saturn) Sega Virtua Stick HSS-0136 (Saturn/PS2) Sega Virtua Stick HSS-0104 (Saturn) Virtua Stick High Grade (PS3) Agetec SEGA Dreamcast Arcade Stick (Dreamcast) SNK Neo Geo AES Stick (Neo Geo/Neo Geo CD) American/ European Style Sticks Sticks in this category are meant to be used with American style parts (Suzo/Happ). X-Arcade Joysticks (PC/Multi) Pelican “Real Arcade” Stick (PS2/GameCube/Xbox) MAS Systems Stick (Multi) Mortal Kombat Tournament Edition Arcade Stick (PS3, Xbox 360) NubyTech Official Street Fighter Anniversary Edition Arcade Stick (PS2, Xbox)

Hori Real Arcade Pro (PS2) Real Arcade Pro 2 (PS2) Fighting Stick 3 (PS3) / Fighting Stick EX2 (Xbox 360) Fighting Stick Wii (Wii) Real Arcade Pro EX (Xbox 360) Real Arcade Pro 3 (PS3) Wireless Fighting Stick 3 (PS3) / Wireless Fighting Stick EX (Xbox 360) Fighting Stick V3 (PS3) / Fighting Stick VX (Xbox 360) Real Arcade Pro.V3 SA (PS3) / Real Arcade Pro.VX SA (Xbox 360) Real Arcade Pro V4 (PS3/PS4) Real Arcade Pro Hayabusa (XBO) Real Arcade PRO V3 VLX (PS3) Real Arcade PRO Premium VLX (PS3/PS4) Hori Real Arcade Pro N (PS3/PS4) Hori Fighting Edge (PS4)

There are too many joysticks to list them all -- these are just some of the more important/historically relevant ones. Mad Catz NOTE: Issues with early Mad Catz Sticks: Xbox 360 version: Dual-modding with your TE with a Board for Dual modding, when you open up your stick, printed on the board should be its Revision Version printed on the board. If you have Rev A, that is the problem board. If you have Rev B you will be fine. Rev A = bad, Rev B = okay. I was also under the impression that Rev B boards are more reliable but at this point in time you are better off replacing the PCB. PS3 Version: Because of the proprietary USB protocol encoding (UHCI) the PS3 versions of the original SE, Round 1 and Round 2 TE Mad Catz sticks, These early PS3 versions has issues operating on PCs with OLDER Non-Intel USB controllers chipsets (USB 1.1 and USB 2.0). The PS3 versions of the TE Round 1 and Round 2 are completely incompatible with USB 3.0 and onwards. Your best bet is to replace the PCB with something more Universally compatible. There no modern USB PCIe board that allows you to use theses sticks, so don't ask us to find you a PCIe expansion board for you. Mod your stick instead. Street Fighter IV SE (PS3, Xbox 360) Tournament Edition "Round 1" (PS3, Xbox 360) Tournament Edition Round 2 (PS3, Xbox 360) Tournament Edition S (PS3, Xbox 360) TE 2 (Xbox One, Xbox 360, PS3/PS4) Street Fighter X Tekken Fight Stick Pro (PS3/Xbox 360) Versus Series (PS3/Xbox 360)

Before I start with the cool part of this guide, we will first cover three more important objectives. And what you need to consider above all else. Needs Wants Budget Needs: This covers what you absolutely have to have, strip down and basic. With any purchase this is what you should think of first. When it comes to Video Game controls this is usually covered by the Default game pad, only a few games require specialized controls or controls modified for those who have special needs. Example a One handed controller for a gamer who only have one useable arm. I am assuming most people reading this guide now are hardcore fighter or arcade game fans who the regular d-pad is not cutting it for you (for one reason or another). Wants: This is what you have your heart set for. For most people this is your end results. Budget: This is how much money you have to spend. Budget is the more realistic and sobering part of the purchase process. Typically a stick will run you 60 to 250 dollars U.S and up. retail this figure will change with what the normal market price is in your region of the world. Don't ask me personally where to buy sticks in your home country, I wouldn't know from my location in the US. Any stick you find** less than $50** is not worth your money and breaks easy. Keep in mind if you are broke (Budget), and the default game pad works fine enough for you (Need) that these 2 will and should over ride your Wants. Now I am also going to cover other features of each stick/ controller here. These factors are also important to cover but goes secondary to the above. I be using this on almost every stick I list here. Quality Reliability Ease of Modification Purpose or special use Difficulty Scale for Modding From a scale of 1 to 5. This will factor in installing Buttons, Joysticks and replacement panels, and to a lesser extend PCB replacement. This will not factor actual Dual-mods, replacement art or any painting. Easy: Standard parts drops right into place, reasonable access to all parts. Medium Easy: Still uses standard parts, access can be difficult/ time consuming Moderate Difficulty: Requires minor case modding or appropriate mount plates Medium hard: Requires some physical tool use to fit parts into place. Hard: Requires Heavy modding using tools to cut, grind or drill to fit replacement parts. How to Win at eBay. Keep in mind eBay is not an online store. eBay is a listing, and auction service, you are buying from that individual seller not eBay. And Every Seller is different. For Experienced sellers who sold hundreds if not thousands, Look for sellers with a Feedback score of 99.5% rating or better. Huge time sellers with a 95% or lower are to be avoided like the plague. Pay attention to the text in the negative feedbacks, check to see if the negative feedbacks buyers actually have an issue or they are just jerks. For people with a hundred sales or less, if they do not have a 100% rating, avoid them. When Bidding: Never, ever bid early. You only drive the price up higher. Wait till the last possible minute (or less). Also decide in advance the maximum you want to bid, unless you GOTTA HAVE IT do not get in a bidding war. Also there is no such thing as a “BEGINNER STICK” so do not ask. There are no Training Wheels in the FGC.

The “What Stick/Controller Should I Buy?” Thread Click here to jump to the stick index / reviews Warning: This thread is heavily opinionated as are the nature of any product review As well all have contrasting views on what is good/acceptable, as rule from the moderators, we shall not devolve into a VERSUS thread. Personal opinions are fine, trying to argue that your favorite stick is better will not be tolerated. Do not confuse opinion with fact and vise versa. Your Results/Mileage will vary. And don’t ask for us to make a choice for you, I am not holding anyone’s hand. When it comes to my own reviews, I will not go through and point out what is my own opinions from what is fact (as my prerogative), and I encourage everyone to do your own fact finding research before you make a final conclusion for yourself. That is what google is for, finding your own research and making your own decisions. Don't ask about sales, promo codes, or deals for any products. As the time of writing, we don't have any known industry insiders on the forum. Keep in mind I am purposely leaving out many limited edition and/or collectors sticks, as it goes outside the intentions of the guide. Collectors are going to collect. And I also like to keep custom sticks off the thread entirely, Custom sticks are outside of the scope of this guide and is considered off topic. Want a custom stick, make your own or hire someone to do it for you. I am going to completely ignore All-button "sticks", Keyboard-"sticks", Hitboxes and the like. If you want to review them, then make your own. And no this is not a carbon copy of the guide from Tech Talk, as that guide is out of date and I am leaving a lot of old stuff there. Last but not least I ask readers to go outside of this thread and do your research. Read reviews here on MEGASHOCK and reviews on online stores and in magazines. Weigh the Pros and Cons before deciding which stick to get. And please don't make new threads on what stick you should buy, read the thread first. Don't see what you are looking for ask.

So I was thinking should I start rewriting and porting over any guides from SRK TT or not. Not like anything is property of SRK there, its all community developed stuff.

And people wonder why I am sticking mostly to PC/Switch for the next gen. I might get PS5, but it be a long ways off.

🤣

Oh that shit, yes it's dumb.

EX2 was a bitch and a half to mod, and I wouldn't even bother. V3 is a little better, but that joystick isn't easy to swap. The Injustice stick was nice to mod, will take Sanwa parts just fine, anything else requires the Dremel.

I don't know the Switch has a flood of (mostly terrible) indie titles (and some gems too).

Everyone wants to Bash Bethesda for glitches, but most Elder Scroll glitches that isn't Daggerfall would just result in a broken quest or missing, or duplicated item. Oblivion, Morrowind or Skyrim don't crash usually unless you are screwing with mods or do something dumb with the command console. Never had a issue with Fallout 3 or 4. New Vegas is a shit hole of bugs, and the only Fallout Beth didn't make after their acquisition, and Obsidian should stay far far away from Fallout entirely. MS stepping in would only fuck everything up, so don't bother brining it up. Fallout 76 is the outlier for bugginess. Oh there was the one bug on the PS3 version of Skyrim but it was quickly patched. Ubisoft on the other hand has glitches that just ether break the game or are hilarious. EA made a game that would brick your PlayStation 4. Both EA and Ubisoft has patches ether the same size or bigger than their games.

I am a Sith Lord, of course I am a Heretic. But just to be clear the Imperium of Man would probably see both Sith and Jedi has Heretics to be slaughtered with their heretical religion made by heretical xeno and mutant scum .

I said nothing about Kawaii. I said thot. Your level of perversion makes Slaanesh blush

@beesuit is this Thot enough for you? It's a two part-er Starts with https://youtu.be/X6-xf19Wr4s And then it goes to another site that not safe for work (dude created a parody of a porn site to sell the joke) (From the Youtube video description) Follow the Chaos Gods: https://peepoohub.weebly.com/ Song Starts at ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

To be honest, it depends how well the code is written for ether one I like the MiSTer as its one machine going like a dozen or so consoles. Yeah I could just install RetroArch on my PC and call it a day, but in the end I get more out of FPGA for me. Now only if they can do Tetris The Grand Master and Tetris the Absolute The Grand Master 2 I found the only emulator that does Tetris right at the moment is a modified MAME built for Shumps, Shump Mame 4.

Nice, tip. The Steam site didn't want to work, but my App worked fine.

Yeah they are Ewks Bawks Pee Essee Phiwe YUGE.